The following brief summary of his book is used with the author's permission.
J-1: 1915. For use in SCR-49 (BC-24). J-2: 5.5x3.25x1.75" black base key used in above set.
J-3: 5-5/32 x 3-3/8" Wood base. Folding British-style key.
J-4: A silenced key.
J-5, J-5A: Round, Flameproof Aircraft key.
J-6: 4-1/16 x 1-3/4" Black base. British-style. Aircraft key.
J-7: J-5A on a base with a blinker light. Aircraft Key.
J-7A: As above.
J-8: Unknown.
J-9: Unknown.
J-10: Transmitting Key.
J-11: Flameproof, silenced key with rubber buffers.
J-12: 3.5x2.5" Brass sub-base. For field radios.
J-13: Unknown.
J-14: Folding adjustable key used with BC-47.
J-15: Brass-Based, Bunnell key used in EE-15 Buzzer Set.
J-16: Strap key used in EE-10 Signal Lamp Set.
J-17: Unmounted contacts for attachment to panel.
J-18: MESCO Oval legless key for EE-21 Field Set.
J-19: Sliding switch: connects telephone lines together.
J-20: Telephone line switch. Double pole-single throw.
J-21: Strap key used in target range signalling.
J-22: Small strap key with upper, lower, and center contacts.
J-23: 6-5/8x3-1/2x1/2" black base Wireless telegraph key Heavy brass 7-3/4x5/16 lever.
J-24: 15-1/2 x 6 x 1-1/2" base oil break wireless key.
J-25: 8.5x4.5x.75" slate base wire-less key for SCR-41. 1KW set.
J-26: Small wireless key mounted on 12-7/8 x 9 x 3-3/8" wooden box.
J-27: Small wireless key mounted on 12-1/4 x 4-3/8 x 3-1/4" wood box.
J-28: 5-1/4 x 2-7/8 x 3-1/4" open circuit leg key.
J-29: 5-1/4 x 2-7/8 x 3" closed circuit leg key.
J-30: 5-1/4 x 2-3/4 x 1-1/2" closed circuit legless key.
J-31: 6-1/4 x 3-5/8 x 4" open and closed circuit leg key.
J-32: J-30 on a 5 x 3" wooden base.
J-33: 5-1/8 x 2-5/8 x 2-3/4" open circuit legless key.
J-34: 3-7/8 x 1-7/8 x 9/16" wood base. For signal lamp EE-6.
J-35: 5-3/4 x 2-7/16 x 9/16" wood base. For signal lamp EE-6A.
J-36: 8x.5x.5" High speed vibrating bug: Vibroplex, Lionel, & Bunnell.
J-37: 5-3/16 x 2-5/8 x 1" Ovoid Moulded bakelite base.
J-38: 5-1/4 x 3 x 1-1/2" bakelite base. (J-30 open circuit key).
J-39: Unknown.
J-40: For field set SCR-163A.
J-41: 5-1/4 x 2-5/8 x 7/8" Like J-37 but with back contact. For TG-5.
J-42: Unknown.
J-43: 5-1/4 x 2-3/4 x 1-1/2" J-37 on base with push switch.
J-44: 5 x 2-3/4 1-1/2" J-37 on base with shorting switch.
J-45: 5-3/16 x 2-5/8 x 1" metal base.
J-37 on a metal leg clip. (Later models marked KY-116/U).
J-46: 4-3/8 x 2" phenolic base. Strap key for EE-84 signal lamp.
J-47: 5 x 2-3/4 x 1-1/4" bakelite base. Like J-43/44 but without switch.
J-48: 4 x 5-5/8 x 1-1/2 metal base. in olive drab box. For BC-654.
J-49: Automatic code keyer. Keys oscillator for identification.
J-50: Unkown.
J-51: Hand-held and hand-operated scissors-like key for signal lamp M-227. (It allowed the operator to stand safely away from the signal light while sending.)
STRAIGHT KEYS:
Before starting, tighten frame & terminal mounting screws.
Clean contacts and burnish them with very fine emory cloth if they need it.
Pivot Adjustment: The two side pivot screws should be adjusted while ensuring
that the lever is completely free to move up and down.
To free it: Loosen spring tension & contact spacing screws.
Now use the pivot adjusting screws to move the lever-mounted contact
left and right until it is Centered DIRECTLY OVER the lower contact.
Tighten the left and right pivot screws to eliminate all side play
in the lever but be certain that it is completely free to move.
Tighten the securing nuts.
Contact Spacing Adjustment:
Tighten the contact spacing screw to produce desired contact spacing.
About 1/32" or 1mm. is a good starting point.
Refine this adjustment to suit your style of sending.
Then tighten the contact spacing screw's securing nut.
Spring Tension Adjustment:
Tighten spring tension adjusting screw to produce the desired tension.
Then tighten it's securing nut.
SEMI-AUTOMATIC KEYS or BUGS:
Before starting, securely tighten all screws that connect the frame, damper,
contacts, and terminals to the base.
Clean & burnish fixed and moving contacts with fine emory cloth if necessary.
Pivot Adjustment:
Adjust upper & lower pivot screws so lever is free to move side-to-side.
Back out all other adjusting screws until the lever is very free.
Loosen the lock screw(s) or nut(s) on the lower and upper pivot screws.
Adjust the lower and upper (if present) pivot screws to center the
lever-mounted contacts directly across from the base-mounted contacts.
Tighten the pivot screws slowly until all up-and-down movement of the
lever is eliminated but lever is VERY free to move from side-to-side.
Secure the lock screw(s)/lock-nut(s) on the top and bottom pivot screws.
Damper Adjustment:
Screw-in the spring tension adjusting screw that pushes the lever
against the damper until the lever is firmly pressing against the damper.
Now screw-in the damper spacing screw which pushes the lever
away from the damper.
Adjust this screw so that the lever just barely touches the damper.
Secure it with the lock-nut.
Dot Contact Adjustment:
Screw in the base-mounted dot contact so that there is approximately a
1/8-inch gap between the fixed and the moveable contact.
Press the lever to the right - causing the dot contacts to close.
Adjust the dot contact spacing screw until contacts just barely touch.
(For longer dots, adjust to cause the contacts to close quite firmly.)
(For shorter dots, adjust to cause the contacts to not-quite close.)
Secure this screw with the lock-nut.
Dash-Contact Adjustment:
Screw-in the base-mounted dash contact until it is approximately
1/8-inch from the lever-mounted contact. Then secure it with the locknut.
Adjust dash contact spring tension screw for comfortable tension.
Refine the contact spacing and spring tension adjustments to suit your touch.
There is a difference of opinion among collectors about the desirability of "restoring" old telegraph apparatus to its original condition. Most collectors prefer the marks and discoloration of age in a hundred-year-old key in preference to a shiny like-new appearance. The restoration of old telegraph apparatus then, may involve simply light cleaning and stabilization of the deterioration process or, it may involve the complete cleaning and relaquering of the instrument. Restoration of any kind is a time-consuming activity which can not be rushed. Quick, short-cut methods usually damage the instrument permanently and irrevocably, and are to be avoided at all costs!
MINIMAL CLEANING AND STABILIZATION:
If the unit is to be kept in its present condition, (a strategy that I personally recommend) you may want to simply remove superficial dirt and stop further rusting of ferrous parts. The safest cleaning tools are soft toothbrushes and cotton-tipped applicators. Detergents of any kind are generally ok on metal parts but very dangerous to painted parts because they may dissolve or remove original paint and historically important painted-on or ink-stamped-on identification marks and decals. Also, historically important hand-written information often inscribed on the bottom of instruments in pencil may be erased by energetic cleaning. Rust can be stopped by Naval Jelly which replaces it with a black oxide. Pete Malvasi, W2PM recommends a light protective coating of Armor-All to inhibit oxidation. It works well but produces a shiny appearance which may be inappropriate for some items.
THOROUGH CLEANING AND RESTORATION:
Before beginning a complete restoration, make sure that you have adequate time so you will not feel rushed into taking disastrous shortcuts. PLEASE give up any ideas of using motorized or hand held metal brushes or steel wools to remove finishes or corrosion because even soft brass brushes will leave tell-tale scratch marks on the metal and obscure the historically important machining marks. It is also worthwhile to examine every part of a key with a magnifying lens to locate any identification marks that may have been stamped or written on the underside or on individual parts. Once located, these marks should be carefully preserved.
You may decide to try to restore the instrument without disassembling it but if you do disassemble it be certain that you can put every part back where it came from. Missing and broken parts can often be reproduced by machinists and many gunsmiths can also make fine brass reproductions. Springs can be replaced by those available in hardware stores. Tapered springs can be made by carefully "necking down" one end of a straight spring using pliers and going around and around the end until the desired diameter is achieved.
Most old telegraph apparatus was painted with a protective lacquer after manufacture and this lacquer must be removed before the metal can be cleaned, and then relaquered. The least damage will be done by using a powerful paint remover such as Zip-Strip and / or acetone to remove the laquer. Apply the chemical using protective gloves and eye protection and wait for it to loosen and soften the paint. Remove the paint residue with a toothbrush or cotton-tipped applicator. Then wash thoroughly to remove absolutely all traces of the chemical.
The next step is to restore the original shine to the metal. Try several NON-ABRASIVE copper, brass, and silver polishes until you find one which you can simply apply and wait. The more you have to rub a polish into the metal, the more you remove the trade marks and machining marks and the more you tend to round sharp edges. This dramatically reduces its value.
After the unit is clean and shiny and any broken parts have been repaired, it is time to apply a new finish. A clear spray varnish would preserve the shined up appearance of the unit but it wouldn’t look authentic. Since most telegraph units were purposely painted with a duller finish to avoid distracting the operators, you will want to use an amber colored laquer. This will bring the unit back close to its original appearance.
W.R. Smith - W4PAL has written a very complete and thorough book on all aspects of restoring telegraph Keys. Check www.w1tp.com for availability, ordering information, and examples of his restorations.
BOOKS and CDs:
Brown, J. W. (1896) The Signal Corps U.S.A. in the War of the Rebellion
(916 pages, 40 maps, 600 photos). Reprinted and sold by:
Walter Mathers, 13 Beach Rd. Glen Burnie, MD 21060.$60+4.50 pp.
Coe, L. (1993). The Telegraph.: McFarland & Co. Box 611, Jefferson, NC 28640
French, T. (1996).The Vibroplex Collector's Guide. (3rd. Ed.) Maynard, MA:
Artifax Books, Box 88, Maynard, MA 01754 Email: artifaxbooks@yahoo.com
Artifax Books Web pages: http://www.artifaxbooks.com
French, T. (1993). McElroy, Wld's Champion Telegrphr. Maynard, MA: Artifax Books
French, T. (1991). Bunnell's Last Catalog. Maynard, MA: Artifax Books
French, T. (1991). Railroad Telegrapher's Handbook. Maynard, MA: Artifax Books
French, T. (1991). MAC - KEY Handbook. Maynard, MA: Artifax Books
French, T. (1990). Introduction to Key Collecting. Maynard, MA: Artifax Books
Harlow, A. F. (1971). Old Wires & New Waves. New York: Arno Press & NY Times
Herbert, T.E. (1934). Telegraphy. London, Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd.
Holly, W. R. (1990). The Vibroplex Co. Inc. Portland, ME: The Vibroplex Co:
The Vibroplex Co. 11 Midtown Park E. Mobile, AL 36606
Ingram, D. (1991). Keys, Keys, Keys. Hicksville, NY: CQ Communications.
CQ Communications, 76 North Broadway, Hicksville, NY 11801
Ingram, D. (1994). Keys II, Hicksville, NY: CQ Communications.
ITU, (1965). From Semaphore to Satellite. Geneva:ITU Centenary celebration
Jacobs, J. (1995+) List of hundreds of keys for sale. Available for $3.00
from Dr. Joseph Jacobs, 5 Yorktown Place, Ft. Salonga, NY 11768
Kaempffert, W. (1924). Modern Wonder Workers. NY: Blue Ribbon Books
Marland, E.A. (1964) Early Electrical Communication.NY: Abelard-Schuman Ltd
McEwen, N. (1997) The Telegraph Office Website: www.telegraph-office.com
Meulstee, L. (1993) Unusual Military Morse Keys. A.W.A. Review, 2, 1-46.
Meyer, F.I. (1902). Twentieth Century Manual of Railway & Commercial
Telegraphy. New York: Rand McNally.
Moreau, L.R. (1987). The Story of the Key. Morsum Magnificat. issues 6-11.
Reprint Available from: Artifax Books, Box 88, Maynard, MA 01754.
Moreau, L.R. (1987). A century of Telegraph Key Development.
A.W.A. (Antique Wireless Association) Review, 2, 106-119.
Moreau, L.R. & Willer, M.D. (1988). Foreign and Military Telegraph Keys.
A.W.A. (Antique Wireless Association) Review, 3, 98-119.
Nutting, L. J-Series Telegraph Keys of the U.S. Army Signal Corps.Santa
Rosa, CA: Larry Nutting, 4025 Slate Court, Santa Rosa, CA 95405
Perera, T. B. (1995) Telegraph Lists: Internet Telegraph Museum http://w1tp.com
Perera, T. B. (1998) Perera's Telegraph Collector's Guide (1st. Ed.):
Available from: Artifax Books: PO Box 88, Maynard, MA 01754
Perera, T. B. (1999) Perera's Telegraph Collector's Guide: (second Edition):
Available from: Artifax Books: PO Box 88, Maynard, MA 01754
Perera, T. B. (2000) Telegraph Collectors Reference CD - 2000: (1st. Ed.)
Available from: Artifax Books: PO Box 88, Maynard, MA 01754
Perera, T. B. (2004 - 2006) The Story of the ENIGMA: History, Technology, and
Deciphering: (Editions 1-4) Available from: Artifax Books: www.artifaxbooks.com
Perera, T. B. (2004) The Gil Schlehman Telegraph Patent Drawings and Key
Collections: Now included in the Telegraph Collectors Reference CD:
(2nd Edition) Available from: Artifax Books: www.artifaxbooks.com
Perera, T. B. (2005) The Antique Wireless Assocation Telegraph Anthology CD:
Available from: AWA: www.antiquewireless.org
Perera, T. B. (2006) Telegraph Collectors Reference CD (Second Edition):
Available from: Artifax Books: PO Box 88, Maynard, MA 01754
Prescott, G. B. (1866). History, Theory, & Practice of the Electric
Telegraph. Boston: Ticknor and Fields. Reprint available from:
Artifax Books. PO Box 88, Maynard, MA 01754.
Seneker, D. (1995). The Bug Checklist. Available from Doug Seneker,
N0WAN, 505 E. Center, Mt. Vernon, MO, 65712. Updated in Perera (2006)
Smith, W. R. (2005). Restoring Telegraph Keys. See www.w1tp.com for ordering
information.
Ulsamer, Gregor. (2001). Faszination Morsetasten: German Telegraph Keys
Collector's Guide. Gregor Ulsamer, Logumer Strasse 66, 26723 Emden,
Germany. DL1BFE@darc.de
Vanden Berghen, Fons. (1999). Classics of Communication. Brussels: Telindus.
(See the Fons Vanden Berghen links in the internet links section.)
PERIODICALS - ( See updates at: http://w1tp.com )
The KEYLETTER, A compendium of information for telegraph collectors/historians.
Lynn Burlingame, N7CFO, 15621 SE 26th. St. Bellevie, WA 98008.
Website: http://www.n7cfo.com email: n7cfo@n7cfo.com - Donation Requested
for subscription. Complete Back Issue Library: $25 for CD, $45 for hard copy.
The OLD TIMER'S BULLETIN, (Now named: The ANTIQUE WIRELESS ASSOCIATION
JOURNAL) A.W.A. Box E. Breesport, NY 14816 ($20/yr in 2006)
Homepages: http://www.antiquewireless.org
DOTS AND DASHES, The Morse Telegraph Club. John M. Barrows, Editor:
415 South Rife. Dillon, MT 59725 ($16 or $12/yr in 2006)
Homepages: http://www.morsetelegraphclub.org
The VAIL CORRESPONDENT (Ceased publication-Back Issues & CD available.)
Artifax Books: http://www.artifaxbooks.com
MORSUM MAGNIFICAT, Journal for Morse Enthusiasts: (Out of Print.)
The "TOM PERERA-W1TP" Telegraph Museums:
http://w1tp.com
The "TOM PERERA-W1TP" Enigma Museum:
http://w1tp.com/enigma
The "JOHN CASALE-W2NI" Telegraph History Pages:
http://www.telegraph-history.org
The "NEAL McEWEN-K5RW" Telegraph Pages:
http://www.telegraph-office.com
The "GREG RAVEN-KF5N" Telegraph Lore Pages:
http://www.faradic.net/~gsraven/index.shtml
The "PETE MALVASI-W2PM" Telegraph Pages:
http://members.aol.com/pmalvasi/keypix/pete.html
The "RUSS KLEINMAN-WA5Y" Telegraph Collection:
http://www.zianet.com/sparks/index.html
The "RANDY COLE-KN6W" Vibroplex Collector's pages:
http://www.la.ca.us/frandy/
The "BILL BURNS" Atlantic Telegraph Cable pages:
http://www.atlantic-cable.com
The "ELISEO CHIARUCCI - IK6BAK" Telegraph Key Pages:
http://www.morsekey.net
The "FONS VANDEN BERGHEN COLLECTION" (Samples)
http://www.faradic.net/~gsraven/fons_images/fons_museum.html
The “LYNN BURLINGAME-N7CFO” “KEYLETTER”
Newsletter pages:
http://www.n7cfo.com
The "ANTIQUE WIRELESS ASSOCIATION" pages:
http://www.antiquewireless.org
The "MORSE TELEGRAPH CLUB" pages:
http://www.morsetelegraphclub.org
The "NEW JERSEY ANTIQUE RADIO CLUB"
http://www.eht.com/oldradio
The WESTERN UNION ARCHIVES - Smithsonian Institution:
http://invention.smithsonian.org/resources/fa_wu_index.aspx
The “ALFRED VAIL-SPEEDWELL MUSEUM”
http://www.speedwell.org
The “VIBROPLEX CORPORATION” pages:
http://www.vibroplex.com
The “ARTIFAX BOOKS” - “TOM FRENCH-W1IMQ” pages:
http://www.agtannenbaum.com
The PORTHCURNO TELEGRAPH CABLE AND WIRELESS MUSEUM pages:
http://www.porthcurno.org.uk
The “INSULATOR COLLECTORS PAGES”:
http://www.insulators.com